how to set up a studio setting

First we had to thread a pole through the white paper, then we had to set the stands up by making sure they were straight  and level with each other. This picture is of me and Nicole leveling the stands to make the the right level. 

This is me making sure the stands are level with each other, straightening them out to make sure the paper is level with the other side. We did this to make sure that the paper, was okay and checked if there was any rips in the paper.

This is a picture of me and Nichole undoing the roll of the white paper, after we checked that the roll was okay.

After me and Nichole, undid the roll, we had to put  some weights onto the the paper so that it didn't crinkle up, and to make it more stable.

These two photographs were of me and Nichole doing the stands for the lighting set up. We did this really easily making sure the stand was level. The picture above is a close up of me tightening the lighting stand before putting the light on the top.

This is me putting the light together on the stand the first picture is of me screwing the light into the stand. The second image is me putting the lighting cap onto the lights. This was alright but I put it on the wrong way at first until I realised that the hole was on the top when it was suppose to be on the bottom.

These 3 pictures are of me doing the finishing  the lighting off, what I had to do first was to establish were to put the umbrella, I then poked it through the hole, as you can see in the second picture. I had to tighten the screw so that it stayed in place. I then leveled it to the right height which I thought to do it at eye level.

This is Nichole sorting the other lightening out. what she had to do was put the soft box onto the light by twisting it on in a certain way. this was fairly simple to do.

This is me and Nichole checking the plugs and getting them prepared for the lighting we had to untangle them, and use an extension cord to make it easier to handle with.

This picture is me looking at the voltage of whats in the plug to make sure its the right one if it isn't the right voltage it could blow up the lights which wouldn't be good. We had to change one of the voltages because it was a 10 amp and the other one is only a 5 amp.

With checking the plugs we first put the extension into the lights before we plugged it in, we then checked the plug to see if it was okay and if the fuse was high enough, The last picture is us both putting the plug into the switch. Before I put the wires into the plug socket I checked to make use that the light was switched off and the everything was off before I switched it on, this has to be done so that there was no electric shock.

This is me and Nichole checking the lights testing them to see if they are okay and working together. As you can see the red button that is the test button and the first white button is for the infer red, which triggers off the other lights. We did a couple of test just to be sure they were working.

This is a flash reader. What it does is it picks up the flash from the lights, then when you take a picture on the SLR it lets you what the aperture should be. We did a trail test, before we took the finishing picture of Nichole.

This is the final shot of Nichole after we put all the lighting and the equipment up, I think this is a really good photograph and the lighting is really well lit and I think the flash reader gave out a good reading. Because we got a good end result.

Task 10 - Architecture

Task 10 - Produce a range of architectural photographs

This is a picture of a chapel. I really like how I took the picture because of the size of the building, just how old the building looks. I also really like the reflection that comes from the windows, I think this is an unusual building because of the age of the bricks.  The ISO on this photograph was on 100 because of the brightness and how sunny it were.

This image is of a picture I took which was above, Hyde shopping center. It's a block of flats which you wouldn't of expected What I tried to do on this picture was I to change the different ISO and the shutter speed. I really like this picture because there is nothing in the shot I like how plain the background is. Because of the weather and how clear the sky was it really brought the picture out.

This picture was on taken on the way back from, Hyde. I really like how this picture is really closed up, I like how the sky is clear blue and how the  windows stands out. I put this on Photoshop, and used the curve tool to get the right colour of the photograph. I really like the angle on this photograph and how the building takes up most of the frame.

I love how simple this building is. This was from the bus station in Hyde, I really like how the angle is right in the middle of the picture. I really like how simple and how little colour there is in the image as well. I haven't done anything to this image because I liked it as it is the sky is really bright. It was on an ISO of 100 and the aperture was F10, because of how sunny it was outside.

This is of a really old building at the back of the shops in Hyde. I really like how old and grotty the photograph. The shutter speed was 1/100 this is why it done natural lighting, The ISO was done on a 200. As you can see because of the contrast in the shutter speed and the aperture it looks really natural.

I really light the monument on this building in Hyde. I never noticed it before but it looked really unusual. I also like how the angle of the shot I have done on the building making the edge of the building in the center. I used F12 on the aperture, and the ISO was 100. 

Activity 5- ISO

 Most digital cameras offer a range of ISO values, such as 100, 200, and 400. Some go much higher--all the way to 3200.

As you can see this is a picture I have used the ISO100, you can tell I have used this because of the brightness and of the photograph. This image was taken inside so you can't really see the ISO on the picture as well. when you bumped your ISO up from 100 to 400 you’ll notice that you can shoot at higher shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures.

This was the ISO of 400. As you can see the image is darker and you cant really see the image because of the lighting. If i were to do this outside, it would look really natural. You would normally use a ISO of 400  film for lower-light photography.

This is ISO 800 when I used the camera for this. It's really dark as you can tell, there is not really vividness of the image because it's so dark. Also as you can tell this is an ISO 800 on a camera, because of how dark the image is, this has happened because I didn't use the triangle with the aperture and shutter speed.

  

Activity 9 - depth of field

Activity 9 - using a model and a scene with a background, elements  produce a sequence of images that have a varying depth of field.

 

This is a close up of depth of field, as you can see the image is really blurry and hasn't got a lot of focus. This is because the camera can only focus on on point at a time and makes everything else blurry.

This is a zoomed out photograph of a dinosaur I took. you can tell that I have zoomed fully out because of how sharp the image is.

As you can see the closer you get to the picture it starts to go less sharp.

The camera that I used was a Eos600D I really like these types of cameras because they capture the depth really well I have zoomed out I bit more and as you can see its getting a little bit more sharper.

As you can see now I have come more you can see the image is starting to come more into focus I didn't change the aperture or the shutter speed when I was taking the photos.

As you can see the closer I get to the image the less sharp it it gets this is a really good example because from the previous image and this image you can tell the difference.

From this image you can tell how close I was to this image by zooming in because of the body on the dinosaur and the only thing that is close to sharp is the head on the dinosaur.

As you can see the image is really sharp this is because the depth of field was focused at this point. The image is really clear and sharp and as you can see from the other images the closer you get to the image the less sharp it gets.

Activity 8 - Focus

Activity 8 - Focus

As you can see from this image of the car that the focus of it is really sharp, How I did this was I turned the focus on the SLR so it was really sharp, then I turned the brightness down a little bit but the main focus was on the car.

When I zoomed in onto the car, a tiny bit you can see it has started, to go a little bit blur, as you can see the houses in the background are going out of focus and the brightness has soothed a little bit as well.

With this image you can tell that the image has gone really distorted and blur. I zoomed in a bit more using the SLR camera, as you can tell, with the images there is no real focus in the image.

As you can tell this is the most distorted picture out of them all, it's really blurry because of how close up it is, the image has no focus what so ever, how I did this was I twisted the lens  so it zoomed in all the way, as you can see you can hardly tell what the image is.

Activity 1- different shot types

Activity 1 - Using an SLR camera collect a range of photographs that display the following shot types - WS, MS, MCU, CU, ECU

Wide Shot
The image takes up the full frame, or at least as much as possible.

 Close UpA certain feature or part of the subject takes up the whole frame.

Medium Close UpHalf way between a MS and a CU.

Extreme Close UpThe ECU gets right in and shows extreme detail.

Activity 3 - Angles

Activity 3 - Produce a variety of photographs that utilise unusual or interesting angles such as high, low or tilted.

As you can see  this is a a low angle, shot, I tried to get the top of roof, and the clouds in the sky. This turned out to be a really great picture, And I think the high angle of this. How I got this image is by looking up at a house.

This low angle of the tree is very simple but because of how simple it is it looks really good. The tree is really high and it looks like its in the clouds because of how I've done the image. I had to get on the floor to get the height of the tree in the picture.

This low angle really captures the height and angle of the image. With this image it gets the shape of the house. I have also tried to put the tip of the house in the middle of the page so that it's the main focus. But I think in this photo the main focus is the apple.

Activity 7 - Shutter Speed

Activity 7-  Use a camera and a tripod and produce a series of identical images that use a variety of shutter speed.

This is a shutter speed of 1/20. This gives off a really slow shutter speed so that the light comes into the camera. I really like how much light is in this photograph, I love the attention to detail, and the sharpness of the photo is really captured in this photo.

This is a shutter speed of 1/60 which is a bit quicker than the photo above,  the way in which I changed the shutter speed was quite simple, basically you just spin the dial to adjust the shutter speed to change the brightness and the contrast of the image. 

This is a shutter speed of 1/150 of a second, it's a very fast shutter speed and is usually taken to capture  images on bright days,   What I love about this image is that I like how the can stands out from the rest because of the colours on the can.

This is a shutter speed of 1/1000 as you can see it's a really dark photograph because I wasn't  in a bright area. but if I was in a brighter area it would look like a normal photograph. This has a really fast shutter speed, It captures images which are fast moving paste, this is a good shutter speed if you want to take a photograph of a waterfall or a firework.

This is 1/20 of a shutter speed. As you can tell the image looks really weird and doesn't look right this is because I had to try and stay still and too much light came through. You would only use this shutter speed if you was in a dark place, with not a lot of light.

This is a 1/125 shutter speed as you can see the image looks more natural, with the lighting this shutter speed is what normally the auto one goes on because its for natural lighting I do like this shutter speed because the lighting is right for the environment I was in.

This is a 1/200 of a shutter speed.As you can see the image has gone darker and you can just see the image of the clock, this shutter speed is normally used when you take photographs outside because it lets a bit more lighting in than normal.

This is a 1/640 shutter speed, the camera does go all the way up to 1/4000 but you only use this in a really bright place were the shutter speed doesn't let a lot of light in. I only went up to this shutter speed because as you can see you can barley see the image of the clock and I thought this was a good time to stop because after this would of been really dark.